Walking in Memphis

"Touched down in the land of the Delta Blues, 

In the middle of the pouring rain...

Saw the ghost of Elvis down on Union Avenue, 

Followed him up to the gates of Graceland,

Then I watched him walk right through..."

Great song by Marc Cohen and we definitely hit Memphis in the middle of a pouring rain, but you have to make sacrifices to visit the King, and we got to stay on “All Shook Up” Lane so… there’s that.

We bought tickets to Graceland for the next day and then focused on the really important stuff – where to go for dinner.

I thought it might be fun to visit the famous Peabody Hotel with the ceremonial duck march through the lobby, but we missed the procession – apparently they have a pretty strict schedule and only show up at 9am and 5pm. Our dinner reservation was for 7:00 and and we’ve both seen ducks before so we took our time.  

We always pick a French restaurant if there’s one available and Chez Philippe inside the hotel sounded like a winner. Our first clue that we might have gotten uppity was when the hostess, maître ‘d and waiter were all waiting for us at the entrance. We were escorted into the beautiful Italian Renaissance dining room where we were the only patrons for the evening. Talk about service!  

We chose the 4 course meal instead of the 7 course and thank goodness we did because the 4-course really had about 10 courses.

Our waiter, Barry (and yes, we were on a first name basis by the time we left) instructed us to choose a selection from each of the GARDEN, LAND, OCEAN, and CONFECTION menus.  I loved this idea – it was kind of like a French wheel of fortune.

 

 

But first, they brought out a single clam on the half-shell appetizer accompanied by adorably miniature clam chowder shooters.

We had the Salade De Betteraves, and Salade De Champignon (beet salad and mushroom salad for non-French speakers like myself).  Patrick believes it isn’t a meal unless there is a baguette or some form of bread on the table, so we were promptly served warm-from-the-oven rosemary cheese biscuits with honey infused butter.

We both chose the sole almandine from the OCEAN menu and it was a standout due to the marinated, deep fried bones that were edible…and delicious. Definitely the first time I’ve been encouraged to eat the fish bones in a restaurant.

Patrick chose the New Zealand elk and I picked the Colorado Rack of Lamb because I will always choose anything with goat cheese.
  
The between course palate cleansers were charming;  a grapefruit sorbet with a black pepper meringue and later a cinnamon panna cotta with heirloom granola served in a brown egg shell. (I do not know how the granola could be heirloom...I certainly hope it hasn't been around for generations.)

Dessert was Brûlée Noix De Pécan for me and Patrick always goes for some version of apple pie, so he had the Gâteau Aux Pommes, but by this point even our eyeballs were full so we only managed a couple of bites. 

I suppose it was a good thing because they then brought out a tiny dessert tower that contained pate de fruits, macarons, and miniature tiramisu. Everyone knows macarons go to a completely separate section of your stomach, so I managed one of those and Patrick ate the rest.

Barry (we were pretty close by now) then brought out a charming little gift bag containing two chocolate crumb coffee cakes so we could “have a little bit of Chez Philippe for breakfast in the morning” and a card signed by the staff expressing their appreciation for our patronage. 

Side note – because I made the reservation while Patrick was driving, they called Patrick Mr. Brown all evening. That was entertaining.

Aside from the wonderful food, Patrick and I had two takeaways from the experience. 

LESSON ONE

Service really does matter.  Throughout our dinner the General Manager, the Maitre d’ and the hostess all quietly dropped by our table to inquire how our meal was and if we were enjoying ourselves.  Considering we were the only patrons, maybe they didn’t have anything else to do, but honestly, they all seemed genuinely kind and interested.  We’ve been to so many places that left us with good feelings due to the excellent service, even if the product/experience was less than stellar. But we’ve also left many establishments shaking our head wondering how they stay in business in spite of themselves. 

My favorite WTH moment was at a very nice Italian restaurant in FL where the server spent 5 minutes extolling the virtues of the daily specials, one of which was a baked brie appetizer with a marmalade topping. Since I have a deep and abiding love for all cheeses, I decisively ordered the brie.  And was promptly told they were out of it. 

This still makes my head spin for a variety of reasons: 

• a) Why would it be a DAILY special if you don’t have it? 
• b) If you don’t have it, why wouldn’t someone run to the grocery store and get some?  It’s not like it’s a rare ingredient. 
• c) If all the brie has inexplicably disappeared off the face of the earth, why wouldn’t you at least mark it off the specially printed AND DATED daily special insert to the menu? 
• d) WHY WHY WHY would you lovingly describe it when listing the specials, only to cruelly deny it?

So many questions and so much bewildered hostility on my part. Not to mention that anytime Patrick wants to go back he just gets the side eye from me and drops it.  Alright, give me a moment for my anger-drenalin to go down and we’ll proceed. (Moral: Don’t mess with my cheese addiction).

LESSON TWO

It’s easy to get tunnel vision with the foods we eat, buying and ordering the same things over and over again. Our waiter kindly explained what we were seeing in each dish and almost every one contained something we had never heard of or rarely eaten…and I don’t think we’re particularly provincial or sheltered.  Just a few were watermelon radishes (a beautiful red with a spicy radish taste), miniature zucchini, tiny pickled squash that I’ve already forgotten the name of, golden beets, and a plethora of sauces.  We’ve vowed to be a little more adventurous in the produce aisle, so I know Patrick is going to love the pickleweed pancakes with dragon carrot salad I’ve got planned for breakfast tomorrow.

AT HOME WITH THE KING

Bright and early the next morning we headed for Graceland.  I like Elvis as much as the next person, but I never really thought about going to Graceland until we were so close. My mom LOVED Elvis and saw him live in Indianapolis at a small theatre before he got really big, but we really didn't have any particular expectations.  Wow. Let me just say that Elvis is definitely an INDUSTRY.

His Graceland home is just a tiny part of the complex that now includes museums, archives. exhibitions, restaurants, gift shops, aircraft, and automobile exhibits.  We could have spent the entire day there but if you know Patrick "Speedy" Gonzales, then you know that didn't happen.  The home is actually pretty modest by today's standards - my home in Atlanta was about the same size and layout - but of course Graceland also includes the grounds, pool, Meditation Garden, raquetball/fitness center, horse barn, etc., etc.  I dearly loved the 70's decor as it brought back memories of our own paneled walls, harvest gold appliances, and carpeted kitchen in my childhood home. (Dear heavens, what were decorators thinking??)

Maybe the carpet is designed to hide the stains?

The Jungle Room was less outrageous than I thought it would be; it was mostly heavily carved wooden furniture and a few animal skin/print pillows, etc., but the billiards room in the basement was BLINDING with its 350 yards of patterned fabric on the walls AND CEILING.  (All I could think of was how would they get out the smell of popcorn or other foods from that fabric?)

A psychedelic experience.

Patrick swooned several times in the automobile exhibit and I might have had to wipe a tear from his eye near the Pink Cadillac and Mercedes Benz Pullman limousine. 

I enjoyed the Lisa Marie private airplane that had a bed covered in his favorite blue suede fabric. I'm guessing that bed could tell some stories.

Due to the pouring rain, we pretty much had the place to ourselves and could take our time, but I suspect it could be a madhouse in high tourist season. 

WARMER IN WACO 

After a couple of days of cold windy rain, we headed for warmer climes and I convinced Patrick that Waco had to be our next stop, even though it was slightly south and out of the way.  If you've seen the HGTV show Fixer Upper then you'll know why; if you haven't...I can't help you.

After another white knuckle trip through the city (which appears to be 90% under construction) we parked the RV and headed to the Magnolia Silos in the Jeep.  We took the requisite pictures, skipped the bakery since the line was around the block, had lunch from one of the gourmet food trucks, and did a fast pass through the market. 

Patrick's "Are we done yet?" look.

I was a little disappointed with the market as I thought they would have furniture type items (we've been looking for an ottoman) but it was mostly candles, t-shirts, and small decor. No sightings of Chip or Joanna so we're back on the road and headed for Arizona for a sunny break before heading to Baja.

Pretty good gourmet grilled cheese from here.

We've done about 1500 miles in ten days and the fun is just beginning!