Entering Mexico at the town of Tecate wasn’t terribly complicated
– we walked in and filled out a simple form with basic info, went back around
the corner to get the paper stamped and pay for the 6-month visa, and then we
walked on through and headed straight to a wonderful bakery before walking
around the city a bit. Clearly, we have
found our people. We had no idea what we were purchasing but Patrick said it
all tasted good.
One of each for Patrick |
We went ahead and bought a Mexican cell phone as a backup (even
though we have service in Canada and Mexico with AT&T) and it cost the
astronomical sum of $500 pesos, which is about $26.00.
I’m embarrassed to say our first stop in Mexico was the Ensenada
Costco. You’ll be relieved to know they
have the same great pizza and hot dogs as they do in the US and we loaded up on bottled water and
necessities. (In my case that means Potstickers…
Costco is the only place I can find the big bag and it’s my favorite quick
meal.)
Our first stop for the night was the Villarino RV park located right on the beach.
Tilly LOVED having free run on the beach until we
caught a bus to the famous La Bufadora (blow hole).The La Bufadora sea spout shoots
waves through an underground sea tunnel and can produce geysers several stories
high, depending on the tide and wind.
We had dinner overlooking the water
and decided right then and there we could happily stay forever.
The next day
we continued on to San Quintin where we met Tony, the owner of Don Eddy’s
restaurant. San Quintin is a beautiful
fishing village and Tony served us lunch along with some history of the area.
Apparently this area is renowned for the fishing, but the views were amazing too.
We camped in Lazaro Cardenas right on the beach and we were
the only ones there. After living in
Florida for the last 5 years, it’s surreal for me to see a beach that’s
uninhabited and pristine.
At night we
roasted hot dogs on a campfire and enjoyed singing and guitar playing by Joe,
our caravan leader. It was pretty much a
perfect evening and everything we thought Baja would be.
Catavina was our next destination and it was mostly a wide
spot in the road with a very nice hotel that we camped behind. We walked into the tiny café across the street (where the floors were sand) and
secured a young man to guide us to the Catavina Cave Paintings.
We drove out of town into the boulder fields and began hiking up the mountain. Thanks to a little rain, the wildflowers and cacti were blooming and gorgeous.
Some of the cacti are HUGE and other cacti have grafted onto them to form odd shapes like the one below.
After a short climb we reached the cave paintings and were in awe that something so seemingly fragile could withstand the harsh elements for so long.
The young man guiding us was a photographer who spoke
pretty good English and was eager to show us some of his photos. He said he often works with crews from LA who come to film the landscape
for movies. Unfortunately, he said he
had to sell his camera to get the funds to fix his truck. It made me sad that I have an unused Nikon
sitting in my office at home that I would have gladly given him.
Guerrero Negro was our next stop for a couple of days and we
were excited to go whale watching here, as it’s one of three lagoons where Grey
Whales return from Alaska each year to mate and birth their
calves. We hopped in a small boat that
held about 9 people and set out to see whales and boy did we!
"Have you ever seen a whale with a polka dot tail...down by the bay?" |
Almost instantly they were breaching in front
of us and water spouts could be seen everywhere. Our boat captain was so sweet and would tap
me on the shoulder and point every time he spotted one…probably because I was
seated right in front on him. At one
point he tapped and pointed to indicate that I could sit up on the wheelbox
in front of him (probably because he was afraid I was gonna fall out of the
boat in my efforts to get good shots) and not gonna lie…I kinda had a “Titanic
on the bow” moment. The whales are
protected in this lagoon and they seemed to know it as they would swim right up
to the boat and circle around as if to say Hi to us.
San Ignacio was a one-day stop and the little village was
adorable with a beautiful old church and two burros in the courtyard.
Most of our group |
I would like these doors on the front of my house...or do you think that's too much? |
Every church needs a couple of burros. |
I haven’t said much about the driving…mostly
because I’m still suffering from the PTSD. The roads are actually very
good. But VERY NARROW. And NO SHOULDER. This is fine when you’re the only one on the
road. However, our rig is 11 feet wide and most lanes are MAYBE 12 feet wide, so passing an oncoming 18-wheeler is…. Stressful. Luckily, Patrick has me as a co-pilot and I
take my duties very seriously. These duties
consist of gripping the arm rests forcefully, leaning to the left when we veer
too close to the edge of the road, and squeezing my eyes shut tight when
confronted with oncoming traffic. It's exhausting and I'm sure Patrick is tired too. heh heh
Our RV park in San Ignacio was called the "Rice and Beans RV Park" and it was quaint and beautiful.
The town is located
in a date palm oasis…it was neat to be driving along in the desert and suddenly
see these beautiful date palms with everything lush and green.
We pulled out in the morning and headed to Playa Santispac
where we spent three days camped right on the beach on the Sea of Cortez. I can’t even adequately express how amazing
it was to simply drive right onto the sand about 15 feet from the water and
just park there for three days.
The
weather was sunny and blue skies – cool at night and always a nice breeze, and we were really grateful to the sailboat owners who moored out and provided the picturesque view every day.
We
kayaked, took a boat trip around the bay, explored a small island where we found a sweet pet cemetery,
read books, wandered to Ana’s restaurant at night for leisurely meals (while
our dogs sat behind us on the floor) and completely embraced having no schedule at
all.
Perhaps the best thing was that vendors walked the beach
once or twice a day to sell their wares – everything from blankets to fresh
bread and fruit already peeled and cut up for you. Can you ask for any more in Paradise…when the
shopping comes right to you? I bought
one of everything because how can you resist when they bring along their cute co-worker?
Tilly felt compelled to do her part to foster public relations between the US and Mexico. |
So now we’re in Loreta for a couple of days, which is a much
bigger town than any we’ve been in since Ensenada. Heading out for dinner and
musica soon, so greetings from Baha and more later.